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Paris Fashion Week: Valentino Review

Kathy Zerbib |
September 30, 2014 | 6:26 p.m. PDT

Senior Entertainment Editor

From Valentino's Spring/Summer 2015 collection (Twitter/@BestDressedList & @BritishVogue).
From Valentino's Spring/Summer 2015 collection (Twitter/@BestDressedList & @BritishVogue).

At the gorgeous Jardin des Tuileries in Paris, France, on Tuesday, Valentino presented a sleek prêt-à-porter (Ready-to-wear) Spring/Summer 2015 collection full of signature prints and luxurious colors.

Valentino is best known for embellished prints that fall two hairs short of being designed for a carpet. For this collection, designers Maria Grazia Chiuri and Pierpaolo Piccioli took inspiration from the Grand Tour to create dazzling contemporary silhouettes in unexpected colors.

Color and prints are fashionable year-round for Valentino (Twitter/@SandyHoyos8).
Color and prints are fashionable year-round for Valentino (Twitter/@SandyHoyos8).

As soon as the first look walked the runway (A navy blue, A-line apron dress with stark pattern), eyebrows raised. Such a dark palette for a typically bright season is uncommon… But it works. 

The next looks to follow blended plain designs with more complex ones. Valentino matched a navy blue princess coat to an oversized handbag and shorts. A simple frock complemented a brown shoulder bag. 

READ MORE: New York Fashion Week: Michael Costello Review

What is most interesting is Valentino's use of sheer, a huge trend across the international fashion weeks. We saw it first in New York Fashion Week. Valentino uses sheer in its little cutouts in several looks. Nipples also poked out of see-through fabrics. The splashes of nudity also serves as confirmation that this collection is indeed meant for spring and summer. Here, it is the combination of cut and silhouette that screams a new year, not the color.

Speaking of sheer, Valentino also strived for controversy with its consistent side-boobs and open tummies. Models in dresses rocked the no-bra look with pride. Fashion has never been afraid to put things out there, and Valentino is continuing the concept. Skin is in, everyone.

But the designers did not want the audience to get too carried away over the lack of coverage. Valentino introduced full-body outerwear with stark patterns that would beg the question, again, if this ready-to-wear collection is ready for fall and winter rather than spring and summer (No, we're still not convinced!).

The Hiltons sat front row at the Valentino show (Twitter/@PretAReporter).
The Hiltons sat front row at the Valentino show (Twitter/@PretAReporter).
Valentino's designs are often described as very fairytale-like and the collection affirms this. Princess collars, broderie, light fabrics, silver-beaded technique, lace, multiprints and saturated colors dominated the runway as if blooming into spring from the original dark pieces. Dreamy patterns inspired by oceanic marvels like coral and seahorses decorated some later, more summery looks. The series of designs and the way Valentino chooses to present them is very clever and tells a strong story.

READ MORE: New York Fashion Week: Betsey Johnson Review

The last look was a sheer, full-length A-line dress with starfish print. A safe look to leave for the finale, but not a bad choice.

As for accessories, Valentino kept its models in knee-high gladiator flats, minimal makeup, basic hairstyles and few jewelry. For such busy designs, the simplicity is to be expected.

Notable attendees at the show included Paris Hilton, Nicky Hilton, Sofia Coppola, Olivia Palermo and Eugenie Niarchos.

Watch a replay of the live stream here and revel in Valentino's designs for yourself.

Reach Senior Entertainment Editor Kathy Zerbib here. Follow her on Twitter here.



 

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