Oysters. To some they are slimy, to others they are a delicacy, but for The Jolly Oyster owners Mark Reynolds and Mark Venus, they are a way of life. 

Different types of oysters from The Jolly Oyster (Margaux Farrell/Neon Tommy)

It all started with a deep love and appreciation for the ocean. Reynolds grew up around the Red Sea and the Arabian Gulf and learned about oyster farming from his grandfather.

Reynolds went on to study the intricacies of shellfish farming and filter feeding, and it amazed him how completely in tune the process was with the environment. Shellfish farming was not only sustainable but it was healthy, natural and most importantly, humane.

When Reynolds and Venus met, they found they shared a mutual appreciation for aquaculture. The two set off to start a business together, but first they had to agree upon the perfect location.

After two years of searching the globe they decided to start their farm in Baja, California. The entire operation took more than ten years to set up. 

At first, they began selling through distributors, but as their passion for shellfish increased they decided they wanted to bring the goods directly to the consumers. The farms are usually difficult to get to, but central California seemed like a nice mix of being both isolated and also having a community.

In August of 2011 the first Jolly Oyster opened in Ventura, Calif. The Ventura location is open air and on the beach.

“As natural as we can hope for,” Reynolds said. “With the sea on one side, and the rolling hills on the other, it is untouched.”

As success in Ventura steadily increased the idea of opening a second location seemed promising. Reynolds says that a large amount of their traffic came from the South Bay so it seemed only natural to open a shop in Torrance, Calif.

The newest location opened its doors in February of this year. This location has a very different feel from the Ventura one. It was made to be accessible, and modeled like a market. 

Walking in to the Torrance market I was impressed at just how clean it was. Not a spot on the counters, not an oyster out of place. The smell reminded me of summer, it was a soft sea smell mixed with crisp air conditioning.

The selection is small, but specialized.

There are three types of oysters: the Pacific, Kumamoto and the Jolly, along with clams and crab claw. 

Mark Reynolds prepping oysters (Margaux Farrell/Neon Tommy)

The smallest of the three oysters was the Kumamoto. This one looks the least frightening for those who are intimidated by the aesthetics of oysters.

The taste was sweet and salty. The oyster was perfectly chilled, which enhanced its freshness. For those who are apprehensive about trying oysters, I would recommend starting here. The size is small and manageable. 

After the initial shock of salt water gushing in your mouth the smooth, meaty texture begins to come alive. It was the mildest and sweetest of the three.

The Pacific was my least favorite of the three, but probably best for the die-hard oyster fans, as it had the most distinct flavors. The Pacific was much larger in size, and the meat more than double the amount of a Kumamoto oyster. 

The taste was much more direct and bitter. Once the salt water washed away I found it hard to digest the flavor of the Pacific. It was a bit too briny and intense for my palette.

Though I did not care for the taste I could still tell how fresh this oyster was. The cool texture enveloped every nook and cranny of my mouth, and as I chewed it over slowly I noticed how versatile an oyster could be. Just before swallowing I remarked an undertone of cucumber, it was subtle but definitely noticeable.

The Jolly is a special oyster created by Venus and Reynolds. They crossed a Kumamoto and a Pacific, and voila, the Jolly was born.

The Jolly was my favorite of the three. The taste resembled the Kumamoto but the size was similar to the Pacific. The oyster was meaty, soft and salty at first, but after chewing thoroughly the sweetness from the Kumamoto came through. 

I tried the oysters naturally and then with the house-made sauces.

There are two sauces; the first is a citrus-based lime and lemon juice sauce that packs a punch. The sauce is a pale orange color and the flavor reminds me of Thai spices. The second, and my favorite of the garnishes, was a brown rice vinegar based sauce with finely chopped pieces of cucumber, shallots and onions.

Reynolds advises against the use of traditional sauces like horseradish and cocktail sauce because he says that the sweetness masks the flavor of the oyster, rather than enhances it. 

Oyster shells (Margaux Farrell/Neon Tommy)

“We are trying to understand the essence of what we are supposed to be enjoying,” said Reynolds. “It is supposed to marry together.

Moving away from the oysters I also tired crab claw. This was the most delectable part of the tasting, in my opinion.

The crab claw was meaty and hearty, and the taste was fresh. With the lightest bite the meat begins to fall out of claw. I tried the crabmeat both naturally and with a Dijon mustard mayonnaise mix that was made in house. Both were delicious.

The crab was perfect for warm weather. It was refreshingly cold and fragrant. It smelled like the last days of summer at the beach where I summered in France growing up. 

After spending the afternoon tasting and learning about oysters I felt full, but not stuffed. My body felt energized and awake and ready for the second half of my day.

If I had to describe The Jolly Oyster in one word I would say fresh.

The Jolly Oyster truly is the definition of farm-to-table. The products sold, whether at the market location or restaurant location, come directly from the source, and that is apparent simply in the taste.

Before visiting The Jolly Oyster I did not know how to appreciate an oyster. Venus and Reynolds both recommend the importance of chewing, and chewing a lot.

“You have to chew the oyster to understand it,” said Venus. “Once you start appreciating the oyster, it is quite the experience.”

For many people the oyster can be a daunting food. It looks squishy, slimy and a bit like snot. However, this is a food that needs to be treated like an experience, not just a meal. 

“Often the oyster is put on a pedestal,” said Venus. “We just want to bring it into the realm of a normal food item that you can get a hold of easily in southern California, and seek it out and enjoy it.”

Reach Staff Reporter Margaux Farrell here or follow her on Twitter here.