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Taiwan Today: Celebration Of The Arts, Past And Present

Perry Nunes |
July 24, 2013 | 3:32 p.m. PDT

Columnist

National Palace Museum. (Creative Commons)
National Palace Museum. (Creative Commons)
Watercolor cherry blossom landscapes, intricate engravings and Imperial era portraits of geishas and samurais. That’s what I imagined when I thought about Asian art, an art culture that celebrated the past but didn’t have much interest in innovating or experimenting in modern artistic styles. I anticipated something extremely traditional, predictable and — though beautiful — one-dimensional. 

I was wrong.

Yes, a celebration of history, both Taiwanese and Chinese, still remains through art that permeates much of Taiwanese culture. Kaohsiung’s Fo Guang Shan Buddha Memorial Center, Taipei’s Presidential Office Building and several other national monuments around the country stand as artistic testaments to Taiwan’s elaborate history. Their architecture and landscaping are artfully crafted and their ornate designs often tell a story. Several of these Taiwanese treasures are packed with influences from Imperial China and Japan, representing a blend of artistic styling that tells of Taiwan’s complex past.

READ: Last week's Taiwan Today — "Summiting Yushan" 

And of course, there is the world-renowned National Palace Museum nestled in the hills of Northern Taipei. The museum is the quintessential celebration of traditional Oriental art with almost 700,000 artifacts that encompass more than 8,000 years of Chinese history, from the Neolithic age to the late Qing Dynasty. The museum holds the largest permanent collection of ancient Chinese artwork and artifacts in the world. As you explore the maze of exhibits, you pass extensive collections of jade carvings, masterful calligraphy and ancient Chinese landscape paintings.

The National Palace Museum was originally located in Beijing’s Forbidden City before Chiang Kai-shek evacuated it to Taiwan during the Chinese Civil War. Thus, in addition to the throngs of historical collections it celebrates, the museum represents a historical journey toward the modern Taiwan of today. 

Beyond all of these historical artistic offerings, however, exists a thriving contemporary art scene. Various art-houses and boutiques tucked away in city alleys beckon for more casual art aficionados. Hop off the MRT and wander a bit through the criss-crossing streets, and you’ll easily stumble upon one of these many artsy spots. 

The Taipei SPOT Film House is a great local indie film house that satisfies my inner movie buff. It occupies a newly renovated, European-style building in Western Taipei that was once the residence of the U.S. ambassador. Now owned and managed by the Taiwan Film and Culture Association, the compound includes an upscale café and restaurant, several viewing theaters and an expansive cinema-themed gift shop. Throughout the year, it screens various festival films and independent pictures. This summer, it also collaborated with the annual Taipei International Film Festival to hold several special events and film screenings featuring work from around the world. 

The concert stage in Revolver. (Perry Nunes/Neon Tommy)
The concert stage in Revolver. (Perry Nunes/Neon Tommy)
Several nights after work, my friends and I frequented a café/bar called Revolver just across from the Chiang Kai-shek Memorial Hall. Dubbed by the Taipei Times as a “part pub, part nightclub, part pool room and part live music venue,” Revolver always seems to have something going on for the city’s young, free-spirited population. 

The three-story building offered different spaces for a variety of activities. Every Monday, it held drawing classes on the top floor. The second floor acted as a movie theater, screening cult classic film The Doors one night, and then transformed into a concert venue featuring a local rock band on another night. The bottom floor featured a trendy bar and lounge that spilled out onto the street. And throughout the place there were plenty of hipster vibes, from the low-key lighting and alternative rock background music at the bar to the “No Coldplay” sign plastered on the wall. 

An artsy café in Taichung. (Perry Nunes/Neon Tommy)
An artsy café in Taichung. (Perry Nunes/Neon Tommy)
Outside of Taipei, the trendy art scene seems to flourish as well. In Taichung, I talked with a young artist who showed me her coffee-shop exhibit in the mellow city. For some of her friends, art was simply a side hobby, but for her, it was an aspiring career path. She explained how competitive it was to secure a spot in formal exhibitions, so several upcoming artists debuted their paintings in local cafés and restaurants instead. And these cafés themselves were pieces of art, carefully decorated and furnished with retro charm and bohemian flair. In one shop, there were vintage posters on the walls, typewriters and records on the shelves and a laid-back acoustic soundtrack playing on loop. 

So whether you’re a history buff looking to appreciate ancient art or a modern-day twenty-something trying to catch some live music with friends, Taiwan has something for you. Sometimes it may feel like Taiwan’s culture is stuck memorializing the past because of its countless temples, shrines and historical monuments. But if you talk with locals and do a bit of exploring, you can easily find just as many cafés, concerts and cinemas — along with plenty of interesting new friends to enjoy them with.

Reach columnist Perry Nunes here.



 

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