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Taiwan Today: A Tale Of Two Cities, Taipei And Hong Kong

Perry Nunes |
June 14, 2013 | 1:24 a.m. PDT

Columnist

The cable car ride to visit the Big Buddha in Hong Kong. (Perry Nunes/Neon Tommy)
The cable car ride to visit the Big Buddha in Hong Kong. (Perry Nunes/Neon Tommy)
Yes, I was only in Hong Kong for three days when three years isn’t even enough time to explore such an expansive city. Yes, comparing two cities and their respective cultures can often devolve into inaccurate assumptions and broad generalizations. 

But bear with me because I think comparing two unfamiliar places serves as a great way to understand them better especially since America has long served as my point of reference. Here goes nothing with my first Asia-to-Asia comparison between Hong Kong and Taipei.

SEE ALSO: Last week's "Taiwan Today: A Modern Paradise

The Crowds

Compared to the relatively homogenous population of Taiwanese and Chinese locals in Taipei, Hong Kong is a much more international city. 

While Cantonese and Mandarin are widely spoken throughout Hong Kong, it seems the majority of people and places cater to an English-speaking world. From subway announcements to airport employees, I rarely had to speak or even decipher Mandarin. In contrast to the streets of Taipei where I’m typically the only Caucasian in sight, I constantly found myself passing people from all around the world — Americans, Europeans, other Asians and even Australians. I often felt I was roaming the streets of a Western city due to Hong Kong’s architecture, cuisine and fashion. 

Traces of British colonialism only added to this Western feel, contributing to a fascinating blend between East and West that is much more obvious than it is in Taiwan. At times, I found myself chuckling at the double-decker buses, the subway announcements in British accents and, of course, the confusing reversed lanes of the roads.

The Eats

Assorted seafood at a Taipei night market stand. (Perry Nunes/Neon Tommy)
Assorted seafood at a Taipei night market stand. (Perry Nunes/Neon Tommy)
Everyone who has been to Taipei has something to say about its food. The sheer volume of street vendors, quaint cafes and upscale restaurants makes it impossible to choose. For some though, the often cramped streets can be full of strange smells, sights and tastes — the iconic stinky tofu immediately comes to mind. But these night markets are a trademark of Taiwan’s culture that I plan to explore more in the weeks to come. For a gastronomic adventurer like me who will always comes to the table hungry, Taiwan sure knows how to satisfy an appetite. 

Hong Kong’s food options weren’t as impressive though, to be fair, I may not have had enough time to try the right places. On our first night, we had dim sum, a Cantonese specialty of à la carte Chinese entrees that I’ve often had back in Los Angeles. Pork buns, boiled shumai, fried noodles — it was all very tasty, but I got the feeling it wasn’t anything that I couldn’t also find in Taiwan. As an international city, Hong Kong probably has the variety and quality of Taipei’s cuisine. It just doesn't seem as accessible. 

The Sights

Both Taipei and Hong Kong have deep colonial histories that have led to a mixture of cultures and influences, a blend that has brought about several interesting sightseeing destinations. Taipei’s most prominent sights revolve around historical or cultural landmarks that define the country’s identity. The Chiang Kai-shek and Sun Yat-sen Memorial Halls serve as celebrations of influential historical figures, and the National Palace Museum stands as the largest and most impressive collection of Chinese artifacts and art in the world.

Nan Lian Garden in Hong Kong. (Perry Nunes/Neon Tommy)
Nan Lian Garden in Hong Kong. (Perry Nunes/Neon Tommy)
Taipei sometimes lacks the spectacle and excitement of a bustling, cosmopolitan city. Hong Kong is just the opposite with its stylish skyscrapers and tightly packed streets.

Many of Hong Kong’s sights seem to surround the sleek, modern beauty of the city itself: the well-maintained Nan Lian Garden in the city’s center; the stunning skyline panoramas at the Peak and the Ritz Carlton’s Ozone Bar; and the world’s longest continuous escalator and moving walkway with a total length of 800 meters, or half a mile. 

By day, slivers of tropical mountains can be seen looming just beyond the crowded clumps of buildings. By night, these mountains are lost into darkness as the whole city lights up. But instead of Taipei’s market signs and hanging lanterns, Hong Kong offers glowing buildings, making it one of the best night skylines in the world. 

One thing these two cities have in common: If you’re trying to sightsee during the summer months, you’ll have to trudge through grueling heat and humidity.

The Lifestyles

Taipei’s lifestyle is what you make of it. If you want to be thrifty, you can hit up one of countless 7/11s and night markets for cheap shopping, food and drinks. If you want to be a little more luxurious, jazz clubs, hotel restaurants and upscale bars are easily accessible. Though most Taiwanese spend their days working or studying, it seems most know how to kick back and relax at night with their friends and families. Even during a busy workday, no one seems to be in a huge hurry. They'll take a midday nap in the office, stand on the escalators and politely wait in marked lines for the subway.

While Taipei seems very laid back — its scooters, shacks and seafood give the city a beach town feel — Hong Kong was a fast-paced frenzy of businesspeople doing things and going places. This doesn’t mean people are uptight or unwelcoming as we met many incredibly friendly locals and expats throughout the city. But Hong Kong gave the impression that its lifestyle can be a little less forgiving. For instance, one cab driver charged us double the appropriate fare upfront because it was 4 a.m., and he sensed we were lost and desperate. 

A skyscraper reflected in the Bank of China building in Hong Kong. (Perry Nunes/Neon Tommy)
A skyscraper reflected in the Bank of China building in Hong Kong. (Perry Nunes/Neon Tommy)
With Hong Kong’s high energy and fast-paced lifestyle come high quality and thus equally high prices. I’ve grown accustomed to having cheap options for food in Taiwan so I was a bit shocked when I found myself paying for $15 dinners and $10 drinks. Average by U.S. standards but definitely way overpriced than what I’m used to. Taiwan definitely shows glimpses of “new money” in certain places, but in Hong Kong, that wealth is a bit more widespread and a lot more obvious. It isn’t rare to overhear the terms “five-star hotel” and “exclusive guest list” when spending the night out on the town. In the end, I suppose you’re paying for the stunning views and Hong Kong’s high-class features.

I had a great, though short, vacation in Hong Kong, but I’m glad to be back home in Taipei. Both cities have their merits and their downfalls, and I’ve come to recognize new subtleties in each. In the coming weeks, I hope to push past the prevalent Taipei-centric view of Taiwan and explore elsewhere on the island. I am always open to suggestions for food, places and activities to explore so feel free to contact me with recommendations. 

Stay tuned for more adventures to come!

Reach contributor Perry Nunes here.



 

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