Josef Centeno, formerly of the Lazy Ox Canteen and the more recent downtown dining destination Baco Mercat, gives Tex-Mex an L.A. twist with a menu inspired by his childhood and the culinary creations of his great-grandmother, grandmother and mother. After the hype surrounding Bar Amá’s “puffy tacos,” Centeno quickly captured the attention of true Texans because of two scarcely seen items on the west coast: queso and breakfast tacos.

What is queso? Isn’t that just Spanish for “cheese”? It is. But it is so much more. Queso in its truest form is essentially melted Velveeta cheese with chorizo sprinkled on top. Served with fresh, flaky corn tortilla chips, Centeno elevates this simple yet iconic dish to a heavenly status. For those who have never had it, consider this your cultural adventure for the day. In addition to this cheesy goodness, Centeno presents to SoCal for perhaps the first time in recorded history: the breakfast taco. Think of all the goodness contained in a breakfast burrito—avocado, egg, sausage or potato—but with the proper proportions, nestled in a warm, thick, freshly made tortilla. 

Candles are the main source of light in the cozy, dim space on Fourth Street, which itself is illuminated by lights strung between buildings. The tiles, brick wall and wood detailing combine to create a minimalist take on what you’d expect from a swanky Tex-Mex place set in Los Angeles. The subdued soundtrack sounds like it was selected straight from the Coachella lineup. 

In case you didn’t get the memo, don’t miss the queso with endless chips to start. With or without chorizo on top, it’s seriously addictive, but don’t fill up before you get to the rest of your meal. Centeno’s “puffy tacos” are the main draw here, as the tortilla itself has been fried to inflated perfection, thin and hollow, almost dripping with oil, cushioning the filling in a way you never thought possible. Of the selection of puffy tacos, the classic carne guisada is a stand out, but the pork and pineapple comes highly recommended as well. Centeno takes pride in his simple, yet creative vegetable sides—the super-sized sweet potato is rich and savory, reminiscent of Thanksgiving dinner. Topped with pools of butter and a pinch of salt, the dish almost captures the flavor of salted caramel.

At brunch-time, the breakfast tacos do not disappoint. But those who are familiar with a simpler, street version from Texas should adjust their expectations for an upgrade. A warm, fresh tortilla made on site swaddles the scrambled egg, hearty breakfast sausage, avocado and a spicy tomato concoction. 

A small menu of tequila- and mezcal-based cocktails complements the spicy flavors on the menu well. The El Camino features the flavor and color of prickly pear, turning it a deep magenta color, while the Tahona Limon delivers the smoky taste of Mezcal, a distilled agave spirit, mixed with lime and sugar. 

To be expected from a newer restaurant, the service was a tad slow. The well-educated wait staff (enough to explain what Mezcal is) knows the most popular, can’t-miss dishes, but more personal recommendations will come with time. 

Exactly how much you want to splurge on your meal is up to you. The dishes are small-ish and can be shared, each running about $10-12. A serving of two puffy tacos will set you back $10-12, which is enough for lunch. Because the menu is extensive, tasting a few different things can get expensive very quickly, especially with the additions of queso and cocktails. Go with likeminded friends, share a few dishes, and you can get out for under $30. Where Baco Mercat offers an inspired, almost transcendent meal, Bar Amá serves up some solidly satisfying grub that will satiate Texans and Angelenos alike. 

Follow Staff Reporter Skyler Okey on Twitter.