Saint Laurent Spring 2013 Ready-To-Wear
Saint Laurent’s collection screamed 60s/70s rock and roll—edgy and glamorous a la “Almost Famous.” Cognac suede fringe jackets and skirts, wide brimmed hats, lace-up details, and flowing floor-grazing maxi dresses made their debut down the catwalk, reminiscent of the days of Janis Joplin and Woodstock. Keeping with the theme, the collection transitioned into a more formal version of the aforementioned maxi dress, displaying slight variations on a basic design—floor length, semi-sheer with a tied waist and plunging neckline. The gown was shown in every hue from scarlet red to basic black, sky blue to deep teal.
The best aspect of the collection was each piece’s ability to seamlessly blend together despite their almost contradictory construction. Paying homage to the ultimate symbol of YSL, Slimane stayed true to his menswear roots, donning models in skin-tight cigarette trousers, black smoking jackets, and structured pieces, a far cry from the long, loose gowns that debuted side-by-side. Aiming to feminize each ensemble’s masculine structure, deep-cut sequin tanks hid beneath blazers and massive, loose bows draped from tailored button-downs.
Length, length, length. Everything was long—from floor-skimming leopard and knit capes and tulle high-low dresses to a standout ankle-length sheer, black lace gown. Distancing itself from the norm of a spring/summer collection, the leg didn’t take center stage.
The collection was not without its oddities, however. Amongst the plethora of chic, ultra-low-cut V-necks, tassel necklaces, and leather skinnies, was a white and black faux fur, almost-chevron striped coat reminiscent of Cruella de Vil. The gold-trimmed floor length cape was another strange addition, most certainly not created for the masses or girls that play it safe.
Complimenting the laid-back, yet sexy vibe of the show, the models’ hair was straight and slightly tousled—“just rolled out of bed” messy. Their eyes were smudgy and kohl rimmed, their lips slightly stained a sheer natural rose. Belts were a main facet—thin and patent snaking through trouser belt loops—thick, chunky, and sometimes studded wrapped around the waists of long, maxi gowns.
Saint Laurent was all about the “cool-girl” vibe this season—effortless and sexy. Leather and lace, suede and studs, fringe and plunging necklines, pushed the envelope without turning tacky or try-hard, seemingly tailor-made to the L.A. fashion crowd.
Reach Staff Reporter Leah Harari here.