When asked about his moody intellectuals Spring 2013 collection, designer Haider Ackermann told Women's Wear Daily, "I wanted to be very calm. It was serene." Ackermann certainly took a turn for the darker, leaving behind jewel tones in favor of a palette of black, gray, brown and white. But the lack of color meant there was more time to focus on the chic riot of print and beautifully tailored shapes.
Ackermann paired high-waisted, cropped skinny trousers with a skinny blazer in a clashing print or a belted robe so slouchy it draped effortlessly off the model's shoulder. Layering was key in the collection, which featured chiffon skirts over trousers and oversized jackets with wispy tops secured by the thinnest of straps. The clothes are for someone who's not afraid to show a little skin, but the sternum- and navel-baring looks were no overprocessed stab at sex appeal.
With prints ranging from chevron to polka dot and often three prints incorporated into different parts of the look, the looks could have seemed jumbled or chaotic, but the muted colors created a sense of complicated calm. The introduction of various textures, tweed and chiffon among them, only enhanced the effect.
The models sported clean faces, defined brows and purple lips and wore black caged sandal boots that looked like an extension of a pair of skinny striped trousers. A defining look was a pairing of gray and black trsousers and jackets in contrasting prints, the detailed tailoring set in contrast with a flowy polka dot chiffon dress and wide striped belt. This is what Haider Ackermann does best - intellectual, complicated creativity.