Louis Vuitton's Fall/Winter 2012/2013 At Paris Fashion Week
Undoubtedly the story on everyone’s lips at this Paris Fashion Week is the steam train designed by Marc Jacobs himself, filled with models for the steamy women’s ready-to-wear Fall/Winter 2012/2013 line from Louis Vuitton that made a grand entry on the runway on March 6.
Everyone in the audience was tilting their heads when the clock struck ten, at the sounds of a train honking, an engine chugging, and chain gates opening. It was amusing, watching them in gaze in awe as the goliath of a steam-train filled with models emerged from the billowing smoke. A scandalous, yet magnificent, opening for a show that 'Marcs' the end of the Paris Fashion Week.
Jacobs, still playing with steam fashion from last year’s fashion week, seems committed to exploring all aspects of the classy style for Louis Vuitton. It was nevertheless delightful to see how much this one style has developed in variety and color since last year.
Naturally, you would expect that the show could not get any better than the opening, but you would be wrong. The romantic, aristocratic air was swiftly moved forward as the models exited the train, ornately styled in Edwardian, yet contemporary, steam-fashion, followed by porters who carried their entire luggage. It was humorous how the porters were far shorter than the women.
One great thing about the line was that it was extroverted, but retained a humble sense of feasibility and practicality. You could imagine these styles on the streets in the near future. Louis Vuitton’s creative team really deserves the credit for such rich, diverse ideas. The dresses lent a distinguished message of haut monde power, yet, in contrast to last year’s show, which was darker and rugged, this reserved a formal, feminine delicacy. At some points during the show, you could plainly notice a perfect balance between the two, especially with the open coats and skirts. The diversity struck the spectator as well, with the vast array of colors, patterns, styles that was explored in the line.
It was evident that Marc did not hesitate to be adventurous: many of the evening dresses, and some of the handbags, sported interesting patterns. The variations of patterns spring off from a retro, round-square design. They exuded bold sophistication, merging classic style with contemporary art; just what you would expect from a 19th century iron lady who doesn’t mind keeping up with the vogue. However, we were not as fond of some designs, like the bags with the long, sweeping fur.
Other little things that struck our eye were some rather nice sweaters, which were unfortunately not as prominent in the show. We also loved the little pants under the skirts, a concept which has always been frustratingly dodgy, but great when properly executed. We loved the giant, round sunglasses.
Marc Jacobs, commenting after the show, wanted his line to retain a sharp sense of femininity. Everyone else at the after-party had great things to say about the designs, and especially about the grand opening. The porters also seem to have left a lasting impression. “The best accessory for a woman is a man carrying her luggage,” were the great words a spectator at the show said.
What this show brings to light is that Louis Vuitton under Marc Jacobs is at the top of its game at culminating fresh ideas, bringing fantasy to life, and in the process responding to the average consumer’s needs.
On a side-note, like one after-partier suggested, it would be interesting if Marc come up with luxury train line.
Reach reporter Raunak Khosla here.