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Breast Milk Vs. Bacon Ice Cream

Veronica Werhane |
February 28, 2011 | 12:52 p.m. PST

Columnist

They say nothing is better than mother’s milk, and for one London ice cream parlor, this statement could not hold truer.  

Breast Milk "Baby Gaga" Ice Cream.  Barcroft
Breast Milk "Baby Gaga" Ice Cream. Barcroft

Inspired by Lady Gaga, “Baby Gaga” ice cream debuted in Icecreamists last Friday, selling out completely by the end of the day.  Made from human breast milk, Madagascan vanilla pods and lemon zest, this taboo dessert is certainly one to try for those looking to escape the same-old chocolate or vanilla.  

However, for those of you who aren’t yet ready to stomach this new delicacy, consider adding a slightly less radical ingredient to your ice cream: bacon.

There are many people out there who firmly believe that bacon should never leave the breakfast table.  While a nice piece of crisp, salty bacon served alongside a stack of fluffy pancakes will never fizzle as a breakfast favorite, it has way more potential than just a breakfast side dish.  Think about all of those times when the maple syrup that was supposed to be on your pancakes or waffle somehow seeped onto the rest of your plate and consequently touched your bacon.  Although unintentional, I’m sure the salty bacon and sweet maple syrup combination was pleasantly delicious.  

This is the concept behind putting bacon in ice cream, which is not only delicious, but also a good thing to try if you want to take baby steps to trying a more extreme flavor, such as Baby Gaga.

To vanilla ice cream, bacon provides the perfect savory balance; tiny bacon bits scattered throughout the ice cream create a crunchy contrast to the smooth and creamy texture.  The saltiness of the bacon juxtaposed with the sweetness of the ice cream adds another element of flavor and is the main reason why the two taste so good together.  A hint of smokiness from the bacon in the background creates a third degree of flavor, which is subtle but it adds to the overall experience.

Bacon Ice Cream.  Flickr.
Bacon Ice Cream. Flickr.

Here is a recipe for really good bacon ice cream.  If you don’t want to make the ice cream from scratch, just make the candied bacon and mix in (or sprinkle on top) tiny pieces with pre-made French vanilla ice cream or custard.  There is also a recipe for chocolate chip bacon pecan cookies, which is just one of the many other desserts that have benefitted significantly from bacon.

Bacon Ice Cream

(Recipe from David Lebovitz)

For the candied bacon:

5 strips bacon

2 teaspoons light brown sugar

For the ice cream custard:

3 tablespoons salted butter

¾  cup (packed) brown sugar

2¾  cup half-and-half

5 large egg yolks

2 teaspoons dark rum or whiskey

¼ teaspoon vanilla extract

¼ teaspoon ground cinnamon (optional)

Directions:

1. To candy the bacon, preheat the oven to 400F.

2. Lay the strips of bacon on a baking sheet lined with a silicone mat or aluminum foil, shiny side down.

3. Sprinkle 1½-2 teaspoons of brown sugar evenly over each strip of bacon, depending on length.

4. Bake for 12-16 minutes. Midway during baking, flip the bacon strips over and drag them through the dark, syrupy liquid that’s collected on the baking sheet. Continue to bake until as dark as mahogany. Remove from oven and cool the strips on a wire rack.

5. Once crisp and cool, chop into little pieces, about the size of grains of rice.

(Bacon bits can be stored in an airtight container and chilled for a day or so, or stored in the freezer a few weeks ahead.)

6. To make the ice cream custard, melt the butter in a heavy, medium-size saucepan. Stir in the brown sugar and half of the half-and-half. Pour the remaining half-and-half into a bowl set in an ice bath and set a mesh strainer over the top.

7. In a separate bowl, stir together the egg yolks, then gradually add some of the warm brown sugar mixture to them, whisking the yolks constantly as you pour. Pour the mixture back into the saucepan.

8. Cook over low to moderate heat, constantly stirring and scraping the bottom with a heatproof spatula until the custard thickens enough to coat the spatula.

9. Strain the custard into the half-and-half, stirring over the ice bath, until cool. Add liquor, vanilla and cinnamon, if using.

10. Refrigerate the mixture. Once thoroughly chilled, freeze in your ice cream maker according to the manufacturer’s instructions. Add the bacon bits during the last moment of churning, or stir them in when you remove the ice cream from the machine.

Chocolate Chip-Bacon-Pecan Cookies.  Photo by Susan Russo
Chocolate Chip-Bacon-Pecan Cookies. Photo by Susan Russo

Chocolate Chip Bacon Pecan Cookies

(Recipe from Susan Russo)

Ingredients:

5 strips cooked bacon

1 cup all-purpose flour

½ teaspoon baking soda

½ teaspoon salt

1 stick (1/2 cup) unsalted butter at room temperature

½ cup white sugar

1/3 cup light brown sugar

1 large egg

1 teaspoon vanilla extract

2/3 cup semisweet chocolate chips

½ cup chopped pecans

Directions:

1. Preheat oven to 350 degrees. Line 2 large baking sheets with parchment paper.

2. In a medium bowl, whisk flour, baking soda and salt.

3. In a large bowl, using an electric mixer, cream the butter and sugars. Add egg and vanilla extract, and beat until just blended. 

4. Add the dry ingredients; beat until just incorporated (do NOT over-stir).  Stir in the chocolate chips, pecans and bacon.

5. Drop rounded one-tablespoons of cookie dough 2 to 3 inches apart (as they will spread) on baking sheet. Bake 10 to 12 minutes, or until firm and golden brown around the edges, and still slightly soft in the center. Transfer to a rack and cool for 15 minutes.

**Variation: If you like your chocolate chip cookies thicker, make the following substitutions and follow the same recipe as above: **

Use 1 cup plus 3 Tablespoons of all-purpose flour

Use 1/3 cup white sugar

1/3 light brown sugar

¾ stick unsalted butter at room temperature

Curious as I am about the flavor of breast milk ice cream, I have to say my experience with the stuff as an infant was sufficient, and I have a feeling many of you might feel the same way. Thus, these recipes do not contain something as novel or, um, nostalgic, as breast milk, but they do contain bacon, which is a less ambitious yet delicious approach to exploring unique flavor combinations.

Send your food questions/suggestions (recipe ideas, restaurant recommendations, food questions, cooking tips, anything food related) to Veronica.  Your questions and comments might be featured in next week’s column!



 

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