Top 5 Collections of NY Fashion Week
Marc Jacobs: If you ever wished to travel to a mystical tropical island the where the flowers were enormous and you needed a giant hat at all times to shield yourself from the sun, Marc Jacobs has designed the wardrobe you would need. A glamourous and trendy 70s jet-setter emerges from the orange printed jumpsuit and haltered silk disco dress with a slit up one whole leg. The drop-waist long strapless dress is heralded as an easy breezy alternative to past collections constructed mini dresses. Safari style pockets in burnt oranges and reds combine to form perfectly constructed jackets and coats, just light enough to throw over a dress if needed.
Adding leather pencil skirts and shiny satin pantsuits, one can picture Bianca Jagger walking down a New York street in 1977 street wearing Jacobs’s large yellow sunhat to hide from the paparazzi. Graphic and striped knits paired with wide-leg pants or tap shorts felt updated in plums and magentas. His use of eyelet was impeccable using it in a one-shouldered black and pink number cinched with a giant black flower at the shoulder. While other collections seemed to stick with black and white sheers, Jacobs found a way to do it in pink and purple without looking tacky. Jacob’s perfectly balanced vintage and modern in his 55 look collection.
Jason Wu: If Blair Waldorf could only wear one designer in Spring 2011, she would wear Jason Wu. Finally, preppy becomes fashionable again with Jason Wu’s simple and ladylike collection. White sheer tops paired with high waisted khaki pants or shorts gives just a hint of sexiness. A taupe strapless knee length dress and a grey tweed oversize blazer over a white collared blouse are juxtaposed by a flash of bright floral chiffon skirts and dresses. Short suits paired with flowing tops and glasses looked polished and uncomplicated. His dresses are elegant; especially his bright purple ruffled front dress with three-quarter length sleeves and black flower detail. His black satin high waisted wide leg pants and blazer are unexpectedly paired with a taupe bandeau of chiffon flowers. Putting fuss aside and sticking to pure refinement, Wu achieves a look that is classically beautiful and modern.
Proenza Schouler: Starting off with muted colors of grey and mauve and ending with vibrant yellow and orange, Lazaro Hernandez and Jack McCollough’s collection takes us on a journey of all springtime’s moods; at times dreary and calm and at other times fun and full of light. Spring tweeds in pale pink and grey followed by dresses in blue, green, and black ombre and some in what looks like watercolor painted silk. Their collection is one for the modern fashion-forward working woman. Comfortable blouses and loose sweaters are effortlessly chic and completely in the moment. Sheer black chiffon overlays bright coral and green dresses perfect for a fancy pool party or a night out. Black, white, and highlighter yellow sheer frilly frocks are playful but totally wearable due to their perfect knee length. The patterned sweaters could be worn with jeans or with a patterned skirt of a different color. Whether its a spider-webbed flowing dress or a fitted short sleeve work-appropriate dress, the bright oranges and reds mixed with subtle details of black is a strikingly fresh color combination. The collection is utter perfection giving us an outfit for every occasion under the sun.
Rodarte: In their most wearable collection yet, the leaders of the new guard, Kate and Laura Mulleavy, wow us again with perfectly crafted dresses and separates. In a flurry of plaids, polka dots, floral lace, and fabric that looks like the wood siding of a seventies station wagon, this collection could easily be worn in any season. The construction of their mixed-media dress of sheer brown lace with leaves and what appears to be draped wood is the perfect complement to their structured navy and grey long sleeve tops and jackets.
Their architecturally unique pieces include a gold thickly pleated mini dress and a long sleeve dress with a grey top, printed navy middle, and plaid bottom. The warm color palette of creams, mustards, and browns is livened up by the insertion of bright blue and white floral, flowing dresses. The cut outs of the garments are strategically placed on the shoulders or chest to give the woman wearing the clothes a little playful edge, while still looking perfectly urbane and quite demure. Rodarte hits a home run by adding sheer white socks and a small collar on some outfits, creating a futuristic nod to a sophisticated seventies school girl.
Peter Som: Bright purple florals with pool and turquoise blue, splashes of yellow, orange, and pink, and once again we see that perfect school girl collar. A hot pink cap sleeve mini dress with a hidden black collar takes 90s minimalism and updates it to feel totally now. The platform black and white patterned ankle strap platforms feel just right with the Easter egg colored peplum tops and flouncy mini skirts. The bra top is championed again this spring with floral skirts and shorts, never to forget a cardigan or jacket over for a perfectly retro beach bunny vibe. Peter Som combines black and white swirl-patterned shorts, red-orange bateau neck long sleeve top, platforms, and round sunglasses for an ultimate 60s cool girl look.