Hordes of hungry Angelenos crowd around the counter at Philippe's, located at 1001 N Alameda Street in downtown.

Ask any regular at Cole’s or Philippe’s, The Original in downtown Los Angeles and you can expect a similar answer: they are eating at the original site of the French dip sandwich.

With no more than two miles between each other’s doorstep, the two establishments are involved in a 100-year-old disagreement, both vying for legitimate claim to the advent of the French dip – a soggy meat sandwich served on a French roll and dipped in “au jus” or beef juice. The waterlogged Los Angeles creation has allowed for both restaurants to continue serving the public since being founded in 1908.

Complete with antiquated neon signage and an unmanageable line-system, Philippe's attracts patrons eager to enjoy what is arguably LA's first and finest French dip. Mark Massengill, a Philippe’s manager and relative of the current owners, said the original French dip was created unintentionally by then owner Philippe Mathieu. “Like many great inventions, it happened on accident,” Massengill said. “In 1918, a police officer came in and ordered a roast beef sandwich. [The] French roll was accidentally dropped in a pan used to collect drippings from roasting beef. The officer agreed to take it as is and liked it so much, [that] came back with his friends.” 

Rick LaDow bites into a traditional roast beef sandwich at Philippe's - the same sandwich he's enjoyed for over 45 years.

According to Massengill, Philippe’s – adjacent to Chinatown in downtown Los Angeles – now fashions between 2,000 and 3,000 French dip sandwiches daily; more than two-thirds of the restaurant’s sandwich sales are for the traditional roast beef variety.

Despite the Philippe’s French dip legend, local competitor Cole’s takes a different take on the origin of LA’s lunchtime staple. Recognized as a historical site by the City of Los Angeles, the Cole’s story dates 10-years earlier at the founding of both establishments. “We were open first, that would make us the originators of the French dip,” said Stacy Johnson, an employee of Cole’s who has worked since its reopening two-years ago. “We opened with the French dip and were the first public house, meaning we were the first bar to open.”

A poster outside Cole's displays the "facts" about LA's French dips.

In addition to being recognized by the city, Johnson said many of her customers prefer Coles to Philippe’s for its food and atmosphere - the newly renovated Cole's is complete with a fully stocked bar and dark brown leather booths. Outside of Cole’s, a playful chart compares the sandwiches of the two competing restaurants. Though analogous in their preparation and design, Cole’s boasts that their sandwiches are not pre-dipped, and opt to serve each sandwich with a side of au jus. 

When asked about the Cole’s versus Philippe's disagreement, Massengill said on occasion, patrons solicit a response to the 100 year-old debate.

“We get a few people that come in, and ask what the name of that other place that has French dip,” Massengill said. “We have a very steady and loyal clientele, and we see a lot of the same faces, along with tourists. We just refer them down to Cole’s.”

Only a mile and half from its competitor, Cole's boasts to be the first public house in Los Angeles and the originators of the French dip.

While managers of both Cole’s and Philippe’s claim there is no rivalry between restaurants, the notoriety that accompanies being distinguished as the originator of the French dip remains significant, more than 100-years later.

To reach Staff Reporter Benjamin Gottlieb, click here or follow him on Twitter.

(Photos by Benjamin Gottlieb)