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Fashion Week Around The Globe: Spring and Summer Styles

Piya Sinha-Roy |
November 7, 2009 | 5:49 p.m. PST

Staff Reporter

Louis Vuitton showcases festive looks for Spring/Summer 2010. Designers
have been showing more uplifting styles during this fall's fashion weeks than last
season's. (Photo by Louis Vuitton)
It's no surprise that the fashion industry is taking a beating in the current economic climate, and the Fall/Winter 09 collections shown earlier this year reflected and responded to the harsher restrictions on their consumers' LV-embossed purses. 
There was more focus on creating structured pieces in a subtle color palette, as designers knew that their customers would be more likely to buy investment pieces when they have less to spend - think Recessionistas, Bargainistas, Thrift-istas or (my personal worst), Frugalistas. 
But in times of hardship, fashion should not duck its creative head, and the Spring/Summer 2010 collections reveal that designers are bouncing back from their fall/winter funk and serving up some fantastic trends.
New York:
The festivities kicked off in New York, a city known for its edgy-meets-preppy style. New York girls are fashion warriors in their urban jungle, and NY designers know how to deliver a new message through style each season. 
Whereas FW09 collections used metallic for sharp, structured futuristic outfits for a fierce survival look, for those of you worried about looking like Tin Man or extras out of a sci-fi flick, don't fret. For SS10, metallic has gone girly. 
Dennis Basso's gorgeous metallic cocktail dresses adopted softer hues (think pale gold, earthy gunmetal and lilac) and Devi Kroell draped metallics into chic, figure-flattering outfits (think Jackie O meets Gossip Girl). 
For California girls put off by the structure of New York outfits, there were designers embracing the laid-back beach look. Derek Lam featured flirty dresses and playsuits in bold blues and reds and summery florals, and Erin Wasson x RCVA designed their entire collection of oversized tops, stripes and distressed jeans, with California girls in mind. 
L.A.'s very own Mulleavy sisters presented Rodarte's darker take on hippy-meets-vampire, featuring layered, distressed fabrics draped alluringly. My personal favorites were Alexander Wang's tan and khaki dresses that are bang on trend for spring (and nothing less was expected from NYC's fashion darling), Jason Wu's uber-flattering shift dresses (expect Michelle Obama to be rocking these very soon), and I'm obsessing over the scalloped ruffles at Marc Jacobs
On the parties front, Fashion's Night Out saw the New York fashion and retail community celebrate shopping in an attempt to help revitalize the economy (I certainly don't need to be told twice to go shop - especially if the economy depends upon it). Hot fashionistas, models and designers about town included Victoria Beckham at Bergdorf Goodman, Alexander Wang at Barneys, Camilla Belle at Ralph Lauren, Charlize Theron at Dior, Sarah Jessica Parker and Oscar de la Renta at Oscar de la Renta FNO party, Justin Timberlake at Saks Fifth Avenue and the Gossip Girl ladies at Teen Vogue (with a performance by Taylor Momsen).
London:
London girls have a great way of confidently mixing old heritage traditions with new designs, and for London Fashion Week's 25th anniversary, London designers have provided London girls with the perfect wardrobe. 
Khaki was a predominant theme on the catwalks, with designers going back to basics with the color palette to create items that would last longer. Both Burberry Prorsum and Aquascutum championed the power of khaki, teaming it with soft charcoal and pastel tones and molding it into ruches, ruffles and flowing hems. Matthew Williamson, known usually for his fabulously loud prints, pared down the boldness in favor of neutral metallics with flashes of bright color. But London designers are known for their daring factor, and the new talents on the catwalk delivered some bright and exciting new designs. 
For print enthusiasts, Erdem Moralioglu's sees spring florals on sleek dresses, Josh Goot's visually stimulating collection and Peter Pilotto's subtle yet sexy graphic designs. My absolute favorite was the candy-colored 50s-inspired collection by Luella Bartley. Not one to stick to the conventional silhouette in the past, the Luella girl is growing up for Spring, but not losing any of the mischievous feminine charm. With delectable short polka minis and cute bow belts, I can't help but want the whole collection for my SS10 wardrobe.
The Burberry after-party was the hot ticket of the week, and attracted a classier crowd with Emma Watson (the face of Burberry's FW09 campaign) leading the way in a customized dress. Liv Tyler, Mary-Kate Olsen, Gwyneth Paltrow, Victoria Beckham, Anna Wintour and new darlings of the British public, Slumdog Millionaire stars Dev Patel and Freida Pinto (an adorable couple) were also in attendance.  Model-du-jour, Agyness Deyn, MTV host Alexa Chung and hot indie band The Kooks were on hand to provide some music for the night. Jealous us!
Milan: 
The voluptuous design of Milan fashion represents the Italian women perfectly. Compared to the conservative structures and subtle sexuality of Paris, ladies in Italy flaunt their femininity and confidence in bolder designs. 
At Prada, the theme was all about versatility where office-chic met beach-chic, and the result is a sophisticated look that can be dressed up or down. Usually, Dolce & Gabbana always deliver on the glam factor, but for SS10, the boys have taken a serious approach with less color and more cover but with sheer fabrics, sharp structured shoulders and yet more ruffles, the collection is still downright sexy. 
Gucci produced some stunning prints and towering platform heels, whilst over at the usually visually orgasmic Roberto Cavalli, the designer toned down the glamour in favor of simpler prints and colors. Versace, however, nailed the spring look with delicious pastels in gorgeous flowing shift dresses, keeping it demure and girly and leaving me in major fashion-lust.
DSquared² teamed up with amFAR to host a glitzy night of charity fundraising and fashion, enticing a gaggle of fashionistas to part with their cash. DSquared² designers, twins Dean and Dan Caten, entertained the likes of Janet Jackson, Donatella Versace, Linda Evangelista, Kanye West and Amber Rose, and Rachel Bilson. Dita von Teese provided the entertainment for the evening with a seductive burlesque routine, and stunning model Noémie Lenoir heated up the evening when she out herself up for auction.
Paris:
Paris ladies are just that - ladies. Parisienne fashion is all about form-flattering suits and dresses with Chanel, Christian Dior and Yves Saint Laurent being the signature look but for SS10, many collections revealed a mischievous side. Miu Miu adhered to its playful quality by featuring animal and silhouette motifs in racy thigh-skimming cut-out shift dresses and pantsuits. At Louis Vuitton, creative director Marc Jacobs has gone back to the 70s ghetto to find inspiration for SS10, channeling Beyonce's Foxy Brown (from Austin Powers 3) with retro prints and giant afro wigs. 
Eccentric British designer Vivienne Westwood vamped up the runway with racy Victorian-inspired outfits. Fellow Brit Alexander McQueen teamed the futuristic hourglass silhouette (previously seen at the likes of Balenciaga) with reptilian prints and outrageous 10-inch heels that required new realms of shoe engineering. He also created quite a show by teaming up with Lady Gaga remotely to premiere her new single via a live stream (which naturally crashed the site after Gaga's million followers tried to check it out). 
But thankfully, Paris fashionistas can always rely on Chanel for grown-up feminine lace and ruffles, Hannah MacGibbon's debut collection at Chloe with sleek, simple separates and Yves Saint Laurent for super-stylish minimalism. My personal favourite? Balmain of course, with its broad shoulders and strong femininity, storming spring with ferocity.
The biggest party of the week was at Le Montana, hosted by Purple Magazine and boasting an uber-chic crowd of the top industry professionals. Model Lily Donaldson, Pucci designer Peter Dundas and Dazed and Confused editor Jefferson Hack joined the likes of Lindsay Lohan, Leigh Lezark and Margharita Missoni in the trendy venue. In true Parisian style, the party rocked on til the early hours and ended only after the wine had stopped flowing.
With LA Fashion Week having just ended in Los Angeles, it was interesting to see what California designers interpreted for SS10. I expected to see subtle spring palettes teamed with ruffles and detailing, and utilitarianism getting a makeover into a softer, feminine style for the new year, and I wasn't disappointed.
For more on LA Fashion Week, click here.


 

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